There is absolutely no better way to start 2016 ! First cover ever in a magazine with this image of Maxime Huscenot shot in Capbreton in december 2015 and published by Surf Session Magazine.
My story about this shot
It was during the crazy swell period we had at the end of the year, december 9th to be exact, I had checked this day as my last opportunity to shoot before going to California.
I was in touch with Andy Crière who, after telling that it wasn’t good enough, called me back telling me to come in Capbreton, to the Santocha, because waves started to be pumping. Everyone knew this spot and sand bank was on fire for the last few weeks.
When I arrived on the spot, the tide is still too low but Laurent (Pujol) is climbing up the dune with his RED camera, a lot of people are already in the water and Andy get a bomb so I decide to go out as well.
There was a lot of water moving offshore, and the spot was not easy to understand, with a lot of sets without any interest, breaking offshore but cleaning the whole line-up.
I went a little bit too far out to avoid them, on the left-hander Andy is looking for. With the current, I gently came back towards the shore, and within two waves I was in the perfect spot when a bomb showed up. I was in the water for only 10 minutes.
Maxime and Andy were on it, but Maxime was more on the inside. While shooting, I didn’t care about the wave to be focused on the framing, and to try to see Maxime as long as I could. Going back with the wave, I knocked Etienne (Bellan-Huchery, water-cameraman, ndlr) who was going in the opposite direction.
Right away, I knew the whole sequence was good but I didn’t take care of it, I went back at the back to avoid another cleaning set. Having a quick look, I mainly noticed a nice flare (bright spot) at the end of it, what I was looking for. Kidding, I told myself “you’re good, today is now profitable, you can go in” but I prefered to stay out and swam the shit out of me for more than an hour, in an impossible current, making the line-up strangly clean and quite, without being able to shot one more image.
Right before Christmas, Maxime sent me an email saying that Surf Session surprised him and to thank me for the picture, that I had to be pretty happy about it. He sounds so excited that I couldn’t help myself, and I asked to the team what was the use of it.
Once I saw the cover appear on my computer, even if I had a good idea about it, I just froze on it for a couple minutes without being able to take my eyes out of it. It was really crazy, mainly for a first cover. And the fact that I manage to get it in the water is much more valuable to my eyes…
Maxime Huscenot’s version
It was one of the cleanest day of the week. There were a lot of people in the water and a lot of waves were breaking all around the line-up. The left-hander breaking close the blockhouse was the most frequent but once you took one of them, it was hard to go back to the line-up due to the current.
Antoine and two others photographers were in the water but had trouble to stay in one spot. Then, the water sunddenly clean itself after a cleaning set, and I was talking with Andy who caught one of the best waves of the day.
I told him that I thought it will be a good wave in any time soon and that we needed to be on it. I paddled hard towards the blockhouse, trying to stay in the line-up with the current but I was a little bit closer to the shore than the others surfers. When this wave came in, she doubled up a lot. With my position I was at the perfect spot and the more inside for it.
What was really great is that I managed to travel several sections in the tube, I brake on some, speed up on others. That also was one of the only wave where I could see Antoine (the photographer) during my wave.
It is only passing by Surf Session office that I have been able to see the full sequence. I love the different kind of lightings playing with the wave, depending on how it is. Thanks to Antoine to have been there at the perfect timing and to Surf Session for publishing my first cover in a magazine !